Dancing lights & frozen landscapes – Svalbard and the Aurora Borealis

Svalbard under the Aurora Borealis – Dancing lights & frozen landscapes

Svalbard 78.2253° N, 15.6256° E

Svalbard has always had the allure of a fairytale world, a sensation that has lingered in my mind so long… The dream emerged through the extraordinary works of Philip Pullman. His stories, filled with magic and wonder, ignited my imagination and sparked a desire to visit the Arctic – a land as mysterious and enchanting as the worlds he created. Now, as I wander through this icy wilderness, it feels as though I’m stepping into the pages of His Dark Materials. I half-expect to encounter Lyra Silvertongue, running alongside her dæmon Pantalaimon, or even the mighty panserbjørn, Iorek Byrnison. Perhaps Lee Scoresby’s airship will drift overhead at some point.

A Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Ocean, Svalbard lies at the top of the world, offering endless expanses of untouched Arctic wilderness. The area spans islands and islets between 74° and 81° north latitude and 10° and 35° east longitude. The largest of these is Spitsbergen, home to Newtontoppen, the highest peak at 1,713 meters a.s.l. Located roughly halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole is a land of striking contrasts and breathtaking natural beauty. Majestic mountains, gleaming blue sea ice, vast glaciers, a rich array of wildlife dominate the landscape, which transforms dramatically with the changing seasons.

Let´s talk about my personal experience here

Spitsbergen has primarily drawn attention as a Mars analog environment. Some of the northernmost springs are found here, eventually scientists study them to understand how liquid water behaves in sub-freezing temperatures. The region’s periglacial landscapes and geomorphology offer insights into past geological histories, contributing to ongoing scientific research.

Arriving in Svalbard feels like stepping into another world. The land stretches endlessly meeting the sky, a stunning array of blues punctuated by hues of purple and pink -while the silence of the polar night envelops you… Longyearbyen is the northernmost settlement on Earth, and it’s easy to feel in awe of the untouched wilderness that expands in all directions. There is no noise, only the whisper of the wind and the crunch of snow beneath my boots. It’s as though the Earth is holding its breath, and I’m fortunate enough to be here to listen. Svalbard isn’t just a destination; it’s an experience -a vivid reminder of nature’s vastness, beauty, and power.

Svalbard under the Aurora Borealis – Dancing lights & frozen landscapes

The Aurora Borealis dances in the northern sky, a shimmering waltz of colour, a celestial sigh.

Throughout history, the Northern Lights have been surrounded by myths and legends. The Vikings believed the lights were reflections of the ghosts of virgins. In Old Norse mythology, they were said to be Bifrost, a dazzling rainbow bridge between Midgard (Earth) and Asgard (the realm of the gods). The indigenous Sami people believed you could hear them, thus they named them Guovssahas –the light you can hear. The Inuits imagined the lights as the dance of the dead, while native Americans envisioned flames under massive cauldrons where warriors boiled their enemies.

No description can truly capture the Northern Lights. The spectacle resembles  a flying carpet rising from the horizon, changing shape and color in mesmerizing, fluid movements. Neon green is the dominant colour, but the lights can range across the spectrum from ultraviolet to infrared. Due to Svalbard’s high latitude, they can even be visible during the daytime, when solar winds are notably strong. The phenomenon occurs when electrically charged particles from the sun collide with Earth’s gases, creating brilliant lights in the sky.

Did you know that your camera can actually ‘see‘ the lights better than you can?

Aurora is also nicknamed diva, because she comes to play whenever she decides! Hunting the northern lights requires patience, as even with advanced predictions nature’s timing remains elusive.

Svalbard under the Aurora Borealis – Dancing lights & frozen landscapes

Under the spell of the Blue hour

In early February, the deep darkness of the polar night begins to break. During a two-week period, the landscape is bathed in the most surreal blue light, that transforms everything in its path. While the sun remains just below the horizon, it casts an ethereal twilight glimmer -a haunting blend of blues and purples… The snow-covered terrain is bathed in a serene, otherworldly glow. Walking through this snowy expanse during these hours felt like a dream, with the sky whispering stories of ancient winters and distant stars.

Svalbard offers a completely different experience depending on the time of year. While winter brings the magic of the polar night, in the summer Svalbard is bathed in continuous daylight. 

The Global Seed Vault: Preserving the Future of Humanity

After binge-watching Into the Night and Yakamoz S-245 (hello, intense apocalyptic vibes) I had to visit the Global Seed Vault, aka Doomsday Vault! It’s hard to put into words the awe I felt standing in front of this magnificent structure. A quiet reminder that even in the most remote corners of the planet, humanity works to protect life. Located deep within the permafrost, it stores seeds from around the world, safeguarding the diversity of plant life for future generations. In times of global catastrophe -whether due to war, natural disasters, or climate change, these seeds offer a way to restore crops. It’s both humbling and inspiring to visit this extraordinary place, knowing that it stands as a beacon of hope in a world of uncertainty.

The Seed Vault is more than just a storage facility for seeds -it’s humanity’s backup plan for the future.

The entrance portal is a simple concrete construction that has gained status as a global icon, in part due to “Perpetual Repercussion”, an illuminated fiber optic art installation created by the Norwegian artist, Dyveke Sanne, that decorates the entrance. (https://www.seedvault.no/)

Svalbard Satellite Station aka SvalSat – where space meets the Arctic!

Svalbard, the land of peculiar facts

• Svalbard is a demilitarized zone, meaning no military operations or establishments are permitted on the islands.
• It is mandatory for anyone traveling outside the settlements to carry firearms and flares for protection against potential polar bear encounters.
• Cats are banned across the entire archipelago due to concerns about their impact on local wildlife, particularly native bird populations.
• Svalbard is classified as a desert due to its low annual rainfall.
• The Longyearbyen airport is constructed on permafrost.
• People from over 40 nationalities call Svalbard home, and citizens of any country are allowed to live there, provided they can financially support themselves.

A heartfelt shout-out to my incredible travel companions, my partners in crime on this unforgettable journey! Together, at the edge of the world, we braved the frigid cold, shared in the awe of the breathtaking Northern Lights, immersed ourselves in the untamed beauty of this extraordinary land. Whether we were navigating the icy terrain, exchanging stories beneath the ethereal twilight sky, or simply soaking in the peaceful silence of the Arctic, having such a remarkable group made every moment even more special. 🧡